There are so many incredible types of leather available. Each has it’s own unique qualities that will benefit different project types or working styles.

The types of leather available include full grain, top grain, genuine, bicast, and bonded. Leather finishes include aniline, semi-aniline, brush-colored, degrained, die-cut, embossed, embroidered, handworked, metallic, nappa, nubuck, oily, patent, pigmented, printed, split, suede, and waxy.

It’s important to choose the right leather for your project to help ensure a great result. Let’s get familiar with all the different types.

Types of Leather

The types of leather can be divided into several different categories. We can examine the types of cuts, leather qualities, leather grades, leather finishes, types of leather by animal, types of leather with fur, and even types of faux and vegan leather. There are some major differences between them.

Some of the variations are due to the manufacturing process, some are due to the finishing process, others are based on the type of animal hide, and yet others are due to how the leather is cut. We’ll dive into each of them in more detail.

The “5 Types of Leather”

While there are many types of leather, folks are often curious about the “5 types of leather.” What they are generally referring to is the volume and layers of the original hide that are still present in the end product. These are full grain, top grain, genuine, split grain, and bonded leather, and much detail about each will be shared.

The material quality and characteristics vary depending on where in the hide the finished leather comes from. Leather quality can also be influenced by many factors. These can include the breed of animal, the climate they lived in, the food they were fed, and the amount of exercise they had. Hides are a natural material and thus highly impacted by the life of the animals that they come from.

Leather quality can also be affected by the meatpacking, tanning, and finishing processes utilized during production. Along with the leather grades consumers are familiar with, we’ll look into leather grades the tanners use when evaluating hides coming from meatpackers.

What is a Leather Hide?

Great! Let’s start here. The leather hide is the skin removed from an animal. Since it is a natural substance, it has unique characteristics and qualities that help it serve a purpose for the animal it was a part of.

It usually forms a protective barrier, keeping the animal’s internal parts safe. Along with hair or fur, it guards from external elements such as sun, water, abrasions, and other things in daily life. Here is a cross-section image showing the layers of a leather hide.

It is made up of a few layers:

Leather Hide – The Grain

The grain is the outermost surface of the leather hide. It is comprised of tight, dense fibers. The grain is the layer that was exposed to the elements (air, rain, sun, etc.) and is usually very strong and smooth once the hair is removed.

Using grain leather from the outer layers of the hide enables products to retain some of the original qualities of the hide. Therefore, each piece of grain leather is unique, reflecting the individual characteristics and history of the hide.

Leather Hide – The Grain and Corium Junction

The grain and corium junction is where the tight outer layer of the leather blends into the looser fibers of the corium. This junction is a mix of the very desirable grain layer and the more fibrous and looser fibers of the corium layer.

Leather Hide – Corium

The corium is a layer within animal hides that is comprised mainly of collagen fibers. These are looser and more open than in the grain layer. Though, this layer is highly usable for producing leather. The corium is usually the thickest layer within an animal hide. Thus, after splitting a hide, parts of the corium might be present in either top grain or genuine leather products.

Leather Hide – Flesh

The flesh is the layer of the hide that consists mainly of muscle and fatty tissues. It is not very valuable for end leather uses. As such, leather is usually split to remove the layers above it, yielding useable material of different grades and qualities for the production of leather goods.

When considering grades and quality of leather, it’s key to understand how the leather is prepared, cut, and finished. Let’s look at the most common methods.

Types of Leather Grades and Leather Qualities

These are the most common ways leather is “graded.” The names, in reality, refer more to the way the leather has been split and the surface treated, than they do to actual “grades.” However, these variations do impact the performance and overall quality of a leather piece.

Thus, folks commonly refer to them as “grades of leather”. After, we’ll explore the actual grades that meatpackers use when evaluating hides for sale to tanneries.

Here is a great look into some of the most popular leather types:

Full Grain Leather

This cut of leather contains the outer layout of the hide, referred to as the “grain” and hasn’t been sanded or buffed to remove any imperfections. Generally, only the hair is removed on full grain leathers. The grain generally has densely packed fibers that are finer, resulting in a surface that is very strong, durable, and can withstand tough use.

Because full grain leather undergoes no sanding, the surface can have minor imperfections. These might be from where a cow rubbed up against a fence, a small cut they might have received, or scrapes from everyday life. Full grain hides without many blemishes are the most prized, as they are the least common and the most visually appealing.

Those surface fibers also give it the most strength of any leather type, making it good for saddlery, footwear, and furniture. Since the outer layer isn’t removed, it develops a patina (a surface color change from use) over time that can be pleasing to the eye. The outer layer also provides some water-resistance qualities. Full Grain is considered the highest-quality leather available.

Top Grain Leather

Top grain leather is very similar to full-grain, except it has had the very top layer sanded and/or buffed to remove imperfections and irregularities in the finish. This makes top grain leather softer and more pliable, with various dyes and finishes applied to it.

While this sanding makes it more visually appealing, it also removes a lot of the strength and some water-repellent qualities of full grain leather. This we begin to see a tradeoff between leather strength and leather look and softness.

Given its softness and flexibility, top grain leather is often used in high-end leather goods, including handbags, wallets, and shoes.

Genuine Leather (Corrected Leather)

Genuine leather is a broad term that encompasses any leather made from animal hides. It can come from any layer of the hide and undergoes treatment to the surface to provide a more uniform, “corrected” appearance. Genuine leather can be sanded or buffed to remove surface imperfections, then dyed (or spray painted) or stamped/embossed to give it a final surface appearance.

The process alters some of the preferred qualities of leather, so while not a top quality, it is often used for items such as:

• Belts
• Wallets
• Bags
• Gloves
• Shoes

Split Grain Leather

Split grain leather is a layered cut of leather from within the lower levels of the top grain area of the hide. It is usually a lower layer of the hide above the flesh. Also, below the full grain and the best top grain cuts. Though, it still provides a useful leather material.

The natural surface of split grain leather is not as dense, tight, and useful as that of full grain and top grain. Thus, it is often used in finishes of leathers that are colored, embossed, and the surface altered in some significant way. This allows it to offer some of the helpful qualities of a leather material, while having a visually pleasing and often functional surface beneficial for leather products.

Bonded Leather (Reconstituted Leather)

Bonded leather is like the scrapple or hot dogs of leather; it is made up of leather scraps that are finely shredded and bonded together using polyurethane or latex onto a fiber mesh or sheet.

The amount of leather in the actual mix can vary greatly (from 10% to 90%) and thus affect the functional and aesthetic properties of the finished product. Bonded leather is often painted to give it color and could also be pressed/embossed to give it the appearance of a particular grain or leather style.

Recycled Leather

Recycled leather, also known as reconstituted leather or upcycled leather, is a material made from leather scraps, fibers, or remnants that are collected from various leather manufacturing processes.

These scraps are then ground up, mixed with a binding agent, and formed into sheets or rolls. The durability of recycled leather can depend on the quality of the scraps used and the binding agent. Recycled leather reduces waste and minimizes the environmental impact of leather production.

Types of Leather Grades – For Raw Hides

When raw hides are produced by meatpackers, they immediately grade them. This grade is used to determine the quality of the raw hide and enables accurate sales to tanneries. The tanneries will ultimately tan the hides, processing the raw material into a finished leather.

As such, it’s important to know exactly the qualities of the leather they are receiving. This ensures they’ll have what’s needed to consistently produce quality finished leathers for the production of leather goods.

When grading raw hides, the inspectors will look for issues including holes, deep cuts, scars, large abrasions, discolorations, machine damage (from the skinning machines), remaining hair, and grain inconsistencies.

It is important to keep in mind, too, that many large ranch operations brand their cattle to denote ownership. Branding involves permanently burning a unique pattern (usually letters or initials) into the skin of the animal. A metal brand in the form of the pattern is heated, then pressed into the animal to leave the pattern permanently burned into the hide. While common, the brand impact to the hide quality is also accounted for in the grading process.

Leather Hide Grade – Number One

Number one hides are top grade hides. They generally have no major surface imperfections, holes, or cuts. If there are holes approximately 3-4 inches from the edge of the hides, and they can be trimmed away, they won’t affect the overall grade. About 80% of hides shipped to tanners should be a number one grade.

Leather Hide Grade – Number Two

A number two hide is allowed to have up to four holes or cuts, as long as they are located in a generally straight line on the hide. This would allow them to be cut around later, still yielding a sizable area of usable hide.

Holes should usually be less than 5” to be considered acceptable within a number two grade hide. Grain defects should also be no larger than approximately 1 ft. sq. in coverage area. Approximately 15%-20% of hides shipped to tanners have a number two hide grade.

Leather Hide Grade – Number Three

Number three hides generally have five or more holes or large cuts within the hide, ideally within a generally straight line. This would allow them to be cut around later, still yielding a sizable area of usable hide.

A single cut or hole over 6” can be allowed. There might also be grain defects or a series of closely-located smaller holes that comprise a surface area larger than 1 ft. sq. In general, number three graded hides should at least yield a 50% usable surface area.

Generally, tanners only purchase number three-grade hides when they have specifically agreed to do so.

Leather Hide Grade – Untannable

Hides that do not meet the quality standards of grades one, two, or three are deemed untannable. They are not shipped to tanners and enter another viable channel for use of the raw animal hide materials outside of the leather industry.

Tanning Methods

Chrome Tanned Leather

Chrome tanned leather is tanned using chromium salts, primarily chromium sulfate. It is a modern and widely used tanning method known for its efficiency and speed in producing soft, supple leather. Chrome tanning typically results in leather that is more uniform in color and texture compared to vegetable-tanned leather.

Vegetable Tanned Leather

Vegetable tanned leather, also known as veg-tan leather or tanned leather, is made using natural materials. Typically, it involves tannins derived from plants and bark, which are natural astringents.

Vegetable tanned leather is known for its natural appearance, firmness, durability, and ability to develop a rich patina over time. It is also valued for its environmental sustainability and graceful aging with use.

Types of Leather Cuts

A finished leather hide has a fairly large amount of leather to choose from when deciding where to cut from the used pieces on a project. Based on the area of the hide in relation to the animal’s body, some pieces will be a little higher quality and a little easier to work with.

Finished leather can usually be purchased based on cut type. This can include the full hide or specific areas within it. Knowing the different available cuts can be helpful based on the type of project you are working on and the performance characteristics you want in the finished piece.

A leather buying guide can be helpful if you’re looking for exactly where to get leather cuts or pieces for a project. It helps buyers make informed decisions, ensuring they select the best leather for their project, and often includes information on:

• Different types of leather
• Leather qualities and grades
• Thicknesses and weights
• Common uses for various types of leather
• Types of cuts and sizes available
• Cost considerations
• Tips for selecting the right leather
• Recommendations on where to buy leather

Whole Leather Cut

A whole leather hide encompasses the entire skinned and tanned hide of an animal. Since it includes the areas from all of the other related cuts, the leather available will range from softer areas with various stretch characteristics to thicker, stiffer areas of the hide. The range of leather thickness and weight will vary across the entire hide.

Side Leather Cut

The side cut of a leather hide is half of an entire hide, cut lengthwise along the middle. Since this includes at least parts of areas from all related cuts, the leather available will range from softer areas with various stretch characteristics to thicker, stiffer areas of the hide.

Shoulder Leather Cut

The shoulder cut of a leather hide comes from the shoulder area of the animals. This area generally has a firm yet malleable and flexible feel, making shoulder cuts good for tooling.

Double Shoulder Leather Cut

The double shoulder cut of a leather hide comes from the shoulder area of the animals. It is essentially the entire shoulder area from the hide. This area usually has a firm but flexible and pliable texture. Shoulder cuts are well-suited for tooling.

Bend Leather Cut

The bend cut of a leather hide is from the area ranging from the spine towards the belly towards the middle of the hide. This is some of the best leather available in a hide, the prime sections generally towards the hind side before the butt. It is best used across a number of leather product applications.

Double Bend Leather Cut

The double bend cut of a leather hide comes from the area extending from the spine towards the belly in the middle of the hide. This section contains some of the best leather available, with the prime parts generally located towards the hind side before the butt. It is ideal for a variety of leather product applications.

Butt Leather Cut

The butt cut of a leather hide is from the hind leg portion of the hide, running around the butt and up towards the spine. This is the thickest and firmest area of the hide. Butt cuts make a good leather for thicker items such as heavy belts.

Double Butt Leather Cut

The double butt cut of a leather hide is from the hind leg portion of the hide, running around the butt and up towards the spine on both sides of the hide. This area is the thickest and firmest part of the hide. Leather from the butt cuts is well-suited for crafting thicker items, such as heavy belts.

Belly Leather Cut

The belly cut of a leather hide is from the left or right edges of the hide. The belly of animals naturally expands and contracts as food and water are consumed. This makes the belly leather a little softer and stretchier than from other areas of the hide. While not considered prime leather, belly cut leather can be used for a variety of leather working uses.

Double Belly Leather Cut

The double belly cut of a leather hide is from the left and right edges of the hide. The belly of animals naturally expands and contracts as they consume food and water, making belly leather slightly softer and more stretchy compared to other hide areas. While not considered prime leather, belly cut leather can be used for many different leather working applications.

Types of Leather From Different Animal Hides

Leather can be produced from the skin of any animal. Throughout history, many leathers have been made across times, regions, and methods.

The most common today are cows, sheep, goats, and pigs. Though, most any type can be obtained if needed for a project. Let’s explore some of the more and less common types of leather.

In general, when speaking about animal leathers, those from larger animals such as cattle are referred to as “hides”. Those from smaller animals, such as rabbits or pigs, are referred to as skins. Also in terms of volume, cattle leather makes up about 67% of the total annual leather production around the world.

Cattle – Bulls

Bulls are uncastrated male cattle. They have higher testosterone levels and, in general, thick, heavy hides. Bull leather is useful for thicker leather uses such as heavy belts and show and boot soles. A low number of male cattle are kept as bulls to reproduce the breeds, so much lower amounts of bull leather are usually available than other types.

Cattle – Steers

Steers are castrated male cattle. They are one of the most popular types of animal leather. There are also many more steers kept than bulls, so steer leather is more widely available. It works well for leather applications including:

• Saddlery
• Belts
• Some shoes
• Other strap items

Cattle – Cows

Cows are female cattle that have had calves. They are very common and popular. Cowhide leather is made from the hide of a cow. Due to its durability and versatility, it is one of the most common types of leather used in various products.

Cowhide leather and hair-on cowhide leather, which is cow and other bovine leather that retains its fur, can be used to make a wide range of items, including furniture, clothing, handbags, shoes, and accessories. It is known for its natural grain pattern, strength, and resistance to abrasion, making it suitable for both functional and decorative purposes.

Cattle – Heifers

Heifers are female cows that have not yet had a calf. This type of leather is generally soft and pliable, great for shoes, boots, and other similar leather applications.

Cattle – Dairy Cows

Dairy cows are female cattle bred primarily for the production of milk. Their hides are generally soft and thin, prized for their smooth texture and pliability, which make them ideal for crafting comfortable and versatile leather products, including:

• Lighter belts
• Wallets
• Clothing
• Upholstery
• Straps

Cattle – Calves

Calves are young male or female cattle. Their hides are generally very soft, thin, and supple, making them useful for finer leather applications such as wallets, watchbands, and smaller leather accessories, including handbags.

Pigs

Although thinner than cow leather, pig leather provides a durable and wear-resistant material because of its dense fibers. It is also porous, soft, and flexible. Pig leather is mostly produced in China. Due to its breathability and lightness, it is used primarily in clothing. Pig leather makes up about 10% of the total leather production worldwide.

Sheep

Sheep leather, also called sheep skin, is popular because it often has one side as leather and the other covered in wool. the wool naturally draws perspiration away from the wearer. This makes it an ideal leather for use in year-round seat upholstery, shoes, slippers, boots, and moccasins. Sheep leather, including lamb leather) makes up about 12% of the total leather production around the world.

Lamb

Lambskin leather is a high-quality, luxurious leather derived from the hides of young sheep. It is prized for its softness, smooth texture, and lightweight characteristics, making it a popular choice for fashion items and accessories. Lambskin leather is delicate and should be used with care.

Goat

Goat leather is a very soft, strong, and durable leather. It is used often in the production of shoes, boots, gloves, rugs, and bags. The skins are supple and flexible, making for a comfortable feel. Goat and kid (young goat) leather makes up about 11% of the total leather production around the world.

Horse

Horse leather is most commonly associated with premium “cordovan” leather. It is made from the butt section of horses. Cordovan leather is very thick, smooth, and dense. It works excellently for fine shoes and gloves.

Also, when compared to cattle hides, horse butts cover a relatively small surface area. This is why cordovan leather products are usually small items such as shoes, gloves, and small accessories.

Exotic Animal Leathers

Since leather can be made from any animal, there are often a variety of leather types available. They are often referred to as “exotic” leathers since they’re less common and sometimes difficult to obtain, make, or find. Here is a non-inclusive exotic leather list:

• Alligator
• Alpaca
• Antelope
• Armadillo
• Bear
• Beaver tail
• Buffalo
• Caiman
• Camel
• Deer
• Dog
• Elk
• Fish
• Frog
• Giraffe
• Hippo
• Kangaroo
• Kudu
• Moose
• Mules
• Ostrich
• Rabbit
• Seal
• Shark
• Snake
• Stingray
• Wallaby
• Walrus
• Yak
• Zebra

Alligator

Alligator leather is a type of exotic leather obtained from the hide of alligators, particularly the American alligator. It can be purchased in many colors and finishes and is known for its luxurious appearance and durability. Alligator leather is widely used in the fashion and accessory industries for items such as:

• Handbags
• Jackets
• Briefcases
• Suitcases
• Watch straps
• Belts
• Wallets
• Bracelets 
• Footwear 

Beaver Tail

Beaver tail leather is the processed hide of the animal’s tail, made into a usable piece of leather. It features a unique scaly pattern similar to fish or snake skin. Beaver tail leather pieces are typically small, generally under 1 square foot in size, and exhibit varying thicknesses across the tail.

Buffalo Leather

Buffalo leather, or bison leather, is made from the hide of American bison. It’s known for its durability, strength, and rugged appearance. Buffalo leather is thicker and more resistant to tearing compared to cowhide, making it suitable for heavy-duty applications such as motorcycle jackets, work boots, and upholstery. It’s valued for its natural grain patterns and the character it adds to leather goods.

Crocodile Leather

Crocodile leather is an exotic leather derived from the hide of crocodiles. Its unique pattern, soft texture, great durability, and limited production make it a highly sought-after luxury. Crocodile leather is exceptionally durable and resistant to wear and tear, which contributes to its long lifespan.

Elk Leather

Elk leather is leather that is made from the hide of an elk, or wapiti, a large species of deer native to North America and parts of Asia. It is often used for making gloves, shoes, and other luxury leather goods. Elk leather known for its strength, durability, and softness, making it a sought-after material in leatherworking.

Fish Leather

Fish leather has a distinctive texture with a pattern of scales that varies depending on the fish species. Despite being thinner than traditional leather, it is surprisingly strong and durable. Fish leather is valued for its unique appearance, sustainability, and durability, making it a popular choice for eco-conscious consumers and designers interested in exotic materials.

Kangaroo Leather

Kangaroo leather is a type of leather made from the skin of kangaroos. It is often used in making high-quality sports equipment such as soccer cleats, rugby boots, and gloves, as well as in luxury goods like wallets and belts.

Kangaroo leather is known for its strength, lightweight feel, and durability and is prized for its unique combination of softness and toughness, making it a favored material in certain types of leatherworking.

Kudu Leather

Kudu leather is an exotic leather obtained from the hide of the kudu, a large antelope native to southern and eastern Africa. It is highly valued for its unique aesthetic and functional properties, which include a distinctive grain pattern, durability, and softness. Kudu leather is durable, strong, pliable, and supple, similar to goat leather.

Llama Leather

Llama leather comes from llamas, domesticated animals native to South America. It is valued for its softness and smooth texture, along with its lightweight nature. Llama leather is a very durable material often used to make high-quality leather goods like:

• Belts
• Shoes
• Bags
• Clothing
• Jackets
• Coats

Ostrich Leather

Ostrich leather is a type of exotic leather made from the hide of ostriches and is known for its distinctive texture, durability, and luxurious appearance. The material is durable and supple, making it a great choice for items such as:

• Wallets
• Watch straps
• Shoes
• Bags
• Boots

Peccary Leather

Peccary leather comes from the peccary, a species of wild pig native to the Americas. It is highly valued for its softness, durability, and unique grain pattern. Peccaries are found in South America and parts of North America, and their leather is known for being finer and softer than traditional pig leather. Peccary leather often used in high-end leather goods such as gloves, belts, and wallets due to its luxurious feel and durability.

Stingray Leather

Stingray leather is an exotic leather derived from the skin of stingrays. Known for its distinctive round bumps and durability, this leather can be challenging to craft with. The calcium nodules are exceptionally hard, similar to human teeth, and were historically used as armor by the samurai. Due to its unique texture and durability, stingray leather is used to create a variety of items, primarily in the fashion and accessory industries.

Yak Leather

Yak leather is thick and heavy material made from the hide of yak, which are large bovine animals native to the Himalayan and Tibetan regions of Asia. It is used primarily for goods that require strong, tough leather that lasts long and resists abrasions, including:

• Clothing
• Belts
• Shoes
• Boots
• Straps
• Bags
• Saddlery
• Tack
• Harnesses

Types of Leather Used for Furs

Some animals have desirable fur as part of their hide. They are used to make clothing and accessories that utilize the hair left on the hide in the double face type of leather finishing. One face is finished leather, the other face is the animal fur. Here is a non-inclusive list of leathers used for furs:

• Beaver
• Chinchilla
• Coyote
• Fox
• Lynx
• Mink
• Muskrat
• Opossum
• Rabbit
• Raccoon
• Sable
• Seal
• Wolf

Types of Leather Finishes – Finished Leathers

When leathers are made, they can be finished in many different ways. These methods yield leathers that can be used for a variety of different purposes. Variations can include texture, flexibility, color, and finish. Let’s explore some of the major types of finished leather.

Aniline Leather

Aniline leather is a type of leather dyed only with soluble dyes. They allow the natural surface of the leather to show through (blemishes, cuts, etc.). Generally, only higher quality leathers are used since they have nice, even surfaces.

Aniline leather is then finished with a thin protective coating to help prevent fast wear of the leather or any other staying or discoloration from showing up on the surface. This can be a visually appealing dye approach since it allows the original surface of the leather to show through.

Semi Aniline Leather

Semi-aniline leather is a type of leather dyed only with soluble dyes. It is similar to aniline leather, though it is only slightly pigmented. Semi-aniline leathers allow the natural surface of the leather to show through (blemishes, cuts, etc.).

It is then finished with a thin protective coating to help prevent fast wear of the leather or any other staining or discoloration from showing up on the surface. Generally, only higher-quality leathers are used since they have nice, even surfaces. This can be a visually appealing dye approach since it allows the original surface of the leather to show through.

Antique Grain Leather

Antique grain is a type of leather that has been treated with a surface affect to give an aged and worn appearance. It might involve several tones of finish or a rubbed pattern to mimic wear over time. Antique grain leather allows one to utilize an aged look in their finished product without requiring the leather to be very old or worn out.

Bicast Leather

Bicast is a type of leather made with a split leather backing and an embossed/impressed layer of polyurethane or vinyl on the top. This gives the appearance of a patterned/shiny leather without the cost of a true top or full grain leather piece. Bicast leather typically ranges in price from $1 to $5 per square foot, making it an attractive option for leather enthusiasts on a limited budget.

Brush Colored Leather

Brush colored leather is a type of leather in which pigment is applied via a brush. This creates a unique pattern of color on each piece. The variations might be in gradient, blending, or overall tone. Brush colored leather is nice for finished pieces that seek a distinct and creative visual appeal.

Chap Leather

Chap leather, a durable, flexible, and lightweight type of chrome-tanned leather, often comes in the largest hides available. These hides are typically used for making garments like chaps or other large-scale projects, making them a good choice for outdoor and equestrian gear. Chap leather is used for hard-wearing items that must withstand wear and environmental damage.

Corinthian Leather

Corinthian leather is a term that was popularized in the 1970s and 1980s through a series of television commercials for Chrysler luxury vehicles. It was used to describe the upholstery material used in these cars, suggesting luxurious and high-quality leather.

However, Corinthian Leather itself is more of a marketing invention rather than a specific type of leather. It generally refers to a high-grade, soft leather often associated with luxury vehicles

Crossgrain Leather

Crossgrain leather is a corrected grain leather type featuring a noticeable diagonal pattern. It involves sanding or cutting heavy, defective hides that are unsuitable for standard tanning methods to create a smooth surface for embossing. This technique results in a uniform leather surface with a protective coating, ensuring durability and resistance to wear.

Debossed Leather

Debossed leather is created by tooling, stamping, or creasing to leave a recessed impression on its surface. This can be achieved using an arbor press machine or manually with a mallet and stamping tool.

Debossing, whether on leather or any other material, involves using moisture, heat, or compression force. It’s often used for adding logos, patterns, or textural elements to leather goods like wallets, belts, or book covers.

Degrained Leather

Degrained leather is a type of leather that has had the grain layer removed. This generally occurs towards the end of the production process. Benefits of degrained leather include a smooth, consistent surface that looks quite nice. However, removing the grain also weakens the outer surface of the layer, making it more susceptible to wear and moisture penetration.

Distressed Leather

Distressed leather is a type of leather that has been artificially treated to achieve an aged or worn appearance. It is intentionally made to look weathered and worn out, often with variations in color and texture to simulate natural wear over time.

Distressed leather typically has a rugged, vintage look with a weathered appearance. It may have natural marks, scars, and wrinkles, or these may be artificially added to enhance the aged look.

Double Face Leather (Double Sided Leather)

Double face leather, also referred to as double sided leather, is a type of leather with two uniquely finished sides. Some examples include sheep skins, where one side is finished leather, and the other is wool. Another is leather that might have different embossed surfaces, one on each side. It could also relate to color, with each side being a unique color or variation of colors.

Embossed Leather

Embossed leather is a type of leather created by producing raised patterns on the finished hide. This can be done by:

• Stamping
• Pressing
• Rolling
• Molding
• Forming

Embossed leather can be made from various types of leather and is used in a wide range of applications, including upholstery, fashion accessories, and bookbinding. The embossed elements can be designs, lettering, or any visual enhancement to the leather’s surface. Embossing can be a cost-effective way to produce material that resembles exotic leathers like crocodiles, deer, or ostrich.

Embroidered Leather

Embroidered leather is a type of leather that has had embroidery applied to it. Embroidery is the craft of embellishing materials with needle and thread. The pattern of the thread is usually placed in such a way as to result in a decorative pattern or motif that is now part of the embroidered material. this is done mainly for visual or aesthetic reasons.

Epi Leather

Epi leather is a type of textured leather most often used in Louis Vuitton bags. It is characterized by its distinctive raised, cross-grain pattern, which is created by stamping a pattern into dyed veg tanned leather and finished with a protective coating.

Epi leather is known for its durability and resistance to water and scratches, making it a popular choice for luxury handbags, wallets, and accessories. It was introduced by Louis Vuitton in the 1980s and has since become one of the brand’s signature materials

Faux Leather

Faux leather is a type of synthetic leather made generally of polyurethane or vinyl. It is intended to look like real leather yet costs significantly less. Faux leather is often used in the furniture industry and has the benefits of being inexpensive (compared to real leather), durable, and easy to clean.

However, it does not reflect real leather qualities such as wearing better over time, natural stretchability, breathability, resistance to cuts and other abrasions, and a unique natural look/feel.

Faux leather can be referred to by a number of names, which can include:

• Faux Leather
• PU Leather
• Vinyl Leather
• Vegan Leather

Hand Worked Leather

Handworked Leather is a type of leather created by the manual application of leather tools. This can result in leather with tooled, stamped, etched, or embossed surfaces. The results can look quite stunning as the craft of hand working leather is an art in itself.

Horween Leather

Horween leather refers to leather produced by the Horween Leather Company, one of the oldest and most renowned tanneries in the United States. Founded in 1905 and based in Chicago, Horween is known for producing high-quality leather using traditional techniques. Horween leather is prized for its durability, smooth texture, and rich color.

Interwoven Leather

Interwoven Leather is a type of leather that has been braided together. Often seen in belts, the weave of the leather laces or strips creates a unique-looking, textured piece. Weaving leather can be used for straps or belts, as well as small bags and pouches, depending on the skill of the weaver.

Italian Leather

Italian leather refers to leather that is produced in Italy, known for its high quality and craftsmanship. It is prized for its softness, flexibility, and durability. Italian leather is a premium product due to the traditions upheld during production. Most hides are ethically sourced and are often left full grain to showcase the natural characteristics of leather. 

Latigo Leather

Latigo leather is highly versatile due to its dual chrome and vegetable tanning process. It’s stiffer than chromexcel yet more pliable than vegetable-tanned leather, and it’s water-resistant, making it an excellent option for a wide range of projects, including:

• Dog collars and leashes
• Bags
• Cases  
• Cinches
• Braiding
• Saddle strings
• Laces

Metallic Leather

Metallic leather is a type of leather that has a metal layer of material added to it during the finishing process. This layer creates a metallic, shiny, reflective look to the finished leather. It is a finishing option most often used in clothing, accessories, and handbags.

Nappa (Napa)

Napa is a type of leather that is more a general marketing term for soft, smooth, full-grain leather. Some napa comes from genuine leather and isn’t the highest quality; the term itself isn’t a clear identifier of quality or material. Moreso, napa leather can be used to connote a smooth, soft leather.

Napa leather is often dyed in a variety of colors, making it highly desirable and suitable for various leather goods. Additionally, different finishes can be applied to enhance its characteristics, such as water and abrasion resistance.

Nubuck Leather

Nubuck is a top-grain leather that has has the surface sanded in such a way as to leave the surface with a slight nap of short protein fibers. This produces a soft, velvet-like surface that is pleasing to the touch and also has a unique visual appearance.

Nubuck leather is frequently dyed with soluble dyes that penetrate the fibers, coloring them without altering the surface. It is often used in leather items, including:

• Jackets
• Shoes
• Gloves
• Bags
• Belts
• Wallets
• Book covers
• Furniture
• Watchbands
• Accessories

Oil Leather (Pull-Up Leather, Waxy Leather, Waxed Leather)

Oil Leather, also known as pull-up leather, waxy leather, and waxed leather, is a type of leather with a larger than average amount of oils and waxes in the surface finish. When the leather pieces are flexed and moved, the surface catches the light in different ways due to the reflections on the oils and waxes.

This provides for a varied look across surface tones, which could be quite visually appealing. Pull up leather accentuates the material’s beauty with a distinctive patina, enhancing the character of each item as it lightens with use.

Patent Leather

Patent leather is a type of leather that has a high-gloss finish applied via a coating, generally linseed oil. It was developed in 1818 (by inventor Seth Boyden in Newark, New Jersey).

Patent leather finishing is often very noticeable with a highly reflective finish. More modern patent leather replaces the linseed oil finish with a plastic coating finish. Because of its glossy finish, patent leather is frequently used for more formal and dressy leather items, including:

• Shoes
• Handbags
• Belts
• Wallets
• Fashion accessories

Pearlized Leather

Pearlized leather has a liquid layer of color added to the surface during finishing. This provides a soft, subtle shine and reflection. While not as reflective as metallic leather, pearlized leather is a subtler implementation of the same concept. It is popularly used in clothing, accessories, and handbags.

Pebbled Leather

Pebbled leather, also known as pebble leather, refers to leather with a specific textured surface. This texture is created by pressing the surface with small, rounded, raised areas or bumps, giving it the appearance of tiny pebbles grouped together. The texture of pebbled leather can be very pleasant, and is often made in soft natural leathers, as well as on faux and vegan leathers.

Perforated Leather

Perforated leather is leather punctured with small holes or perforations in a regular pattern. They are produced with machines that punch or cut holes into the leather surface.

This is typically done to enhance breathability and reduce heat buildup, making it a popular choice for car seats, sports apparel, and certain types of footwear. The perforations can vary in size and density, and they often add a decorative element to the leather while also serving a functional purpose.

Pigmented Leather

Pigmented leather is a type of leather finished with a top coat of pigment (or paint). That pigment helps provide an even surface on the leather and also a protective coating. Pigmented leather is often coated with a clear protective sealer to help protect the pigment layer.

Printed Leather

Printed Leather is a type of leather that has the surface texture printed or stamped into it. This creates various leather surface types that might serve both functional and aesthetic purposes.

Functional purposes might include helping make the leather surface more scratch and abrasion-resistant. Aesthetic purposes might include making it look uniformly pebbled or nubbed. The textures of printed leathers can feel preferable as well.

Quilon Leather

Quilon is a style of leather produced by the Doc Martens footwear company. It is a unique smooth leather finished with a “hair cell” pattern—a fine, textured print that gives the surface a stylish look. Quilon leather was developed in 2007, based on the now-vintage Doc Marten leather from the 1970s.

Saffiano Leather

Saffiano leather is an example of printed leather. It is a type of leather that is textured and treated with a cross-hatch pattern pressed into the wax coating. This process makes the leather highly durable, water-resistant, and easy to clean. Due to its elegant appearance and resilience to scratches and stains, saffiano leather is typically used in luxury goods such as handbags, wallets, and belts.

Soft Leather

Soft leather refers to any supple hide that can feel velvety to the touch. It can be produced from any animal and tanned using any tannin type. Chromium-tanned leather, suede, and leather from young animals are particularly popular choices for making soft leather. Its pliability and comfort make soft leather a great choice for items including:

• Shoes  
• Bags
• Gloves   
• Jackets   
• Clothing

Stretch Leather

Stretch Leather is a type of leather that is usually a composite leather made to be able to stretch when used. It can use a processed leather surface mixed with a synthetic underlayer that allows the material to stretch yet still retain a uniform look with most of the usual performance qualities. Stretch leathers are often used in clothing and leather goods that will be worn and flexed with human movement.

Studded Leather

Studded leather refers to a type of leather that has metal studs or spikes embedded into it, usually for decorative or functional purposes. Historically, it was used in armor and protective gear to provide additional protection against cuts and blows. Studded leather can come in various forms, from jackets and belts to boots and handbags.

Suede Leather

Suede is a type of leather made using a similar approach to Nubuck, where the surface is sanded to leave a slight nap of short protein fibers. However, instead of being made from full grain leather, suede is made from split grain leather and is often dyed in various colors.

Tooling Leather

Tooling leather refers to a type of vegetable-tanned leather that is specifically designed for carving, stamping, and embossing designs onto its surface. It is usually made from cowhide and has a smooth, firm texture that allows it to hold intricate designs well. Tooling leather is commonly used to create decorative patterns, images, and textures on items such as:

• Belts 
• Handbags
• Boots
• Notebook covers 
• Watch straps
• Saddles
• Wallets 

Vachetta Leather

Vachetta leather is a type of leather that is known for its natural appearance and light color. It is usually tanned using vegetable tanning methods, which gives it a pale tan or light beige color.

Vachetta leather is often used in luxury handbags and accessories, particularly in the detailing and handles of these items. Over time, vachetta leather develops a patina, darkening and acquiring a unique character with use and exposure to natural elements.

Vegan Leather

Vegan leather describes materials designed to resemble natural leather but are not derived from animal hides. Typically, vegan leather is made from polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl plastic (vinyl). However, growing interest in alternatives and advancements in technology have led to a wide range of vegan leathers sourced entirely from natural materials, including

• Apple
• Cork
• Grapes
• Kombucha
• Leaves
• Mushrooms
• Pineapple

Washable Leather

Washable Leather is a type of leather that is better suited to cleaning. While leather should not be roughly cleaned often (and likely shouldn’t if well-cared for), special leather washing methods are available. For items that have an expected use requiring frequent cleaning, such as some clothes, washable leather can be used to help ensure the items last longer and stay in great shape.

White Leather

White leather is an animal hide that is chrome tanned and then whitened or aluminum tanned without dyes added. It can be made from various types of animal hides, such as cowhide, sheepskin, or goatskin. White leather has a clean and elegant appearance, with a smooth and often glossy surface that makes it suitable for uses such as:

• Clothing
• Shoes
• Upholstery
• Handbags
• Accessories

Related Questions:

What is the best leather?

The best leather is generally full grain leather. It is smooth, dense, flexible, and wears very well over time. That said, the best leather depends on the type of project it will be used for and personal preference in leather characteristics.

What is the strongest type of leather?

The strongest leather is generally full grain leather. it hasn’t been sanded or buffed to remove imperfections. The grain has densely packed fibers that are finer. This results in a surface that is strong, durable, and can withstand tough use.

Conclusion

There are so many types of leather available, suitable for a range of needs. If you’re curious about what thicknesses of leather would work well for your next project, a guide to leather thickness and weights can help you choose the right leather type for projects.

Depending on the type of project you’re working on or your preference for leather qualities, you’ll likely find a great leather that will help make some incredible leather goods. Leather working is an art that combines practicality with craftsmanship, making it a rewarding and valuable skill or career for those interested in working with their hands and creating tangible, enduring products.